In the mid to late 90’s, if you were a guy who happened to be into fashion or style, you were called “metrosexual.” I remember being metrosexual before there was a term for it. Metrosexual style eventually became the norm and, like any trend that becomes the standard, it jumped the shark. Thanks, Kenneth Cole.

Awhile back, I decided that the new metrosexual was actually the intellectual hipster. Beards, geek glasses, and ironic fashion choices. I was somewhat right and this style washed over both coasts. I probably committed to it more than most. I’ve had a beard for so long that my son doesn’t know what I look like without one.  The good news? Hipster geek is about to give way to the new metrosexual and, dudes, you’re really going to like this one.

It’s all about clean lines and clothes that fit. In the next six months or so, dudes everywhere are going to be tossing out any jeans adorned with a large skull, cross, fleur de lis, or spray paint. Gone are the elaborate pocket designs, the Ed Hardy/Christian Audiger-inspired t-shirts, and hiphoppopotamus-sized baggy pants. Instead, it’s going to be cool to be cool again.

Remember when jeans were subversive? Jeans became “JEANS” when they were the uniform for rock and roll – think Rolling Stones or Ramones, not Brett Michaels. Jeans were for beatniks, for motorcycle clubs, not accountants and tax attorneys who ride their over-saddlebagged Harleys on the weekend. Jeans used to be COOL. Well, good news – dark, raw jeans that fit and have straight legs and unadorned pockets are the new standard staple for guys. You can’t buy them in Wichita yet, but you will be able to soon, and you’re going to be pleased when you do.

But there are a few things about these jeans that you need to know. First, raw denim jeans are a process. These are not pre-worn, pre-washed, pre-faded mall jeans. These are meant to conform to you. Raw denim is supposed to go unwashed as long as possible, stretching and fading in all the places your body bends. Second, raw denim can be cheaply made (Levi’s 501 Shrink-to-Fit) or it can be amazingly durable because it’s selvedge denim. Selvedge is a term that comes from using a shuttle loom to make the denim. Old shuttle looms created an edge as they formed the denim fabric, called a self-edge, which made the denim more durable for work wear because even if the fabric tore, it didn’t fray. Selvedge denim was created by Levi’s and Lee in the first half of the last century, but it’s been perfected by the Japanese. If you want high-quality selvedge denim, the only place you can get it is Japan.

This matters. Because when all the knock-off “raw selvedge” jeans hit Banana Republic and Old Navy, you’re going to need to understand why they suck. You want to be able to spot quality and the best way is to turn up the pant leg and look inside the outer seam for the selvedge line. The selvedge line is a colored thread that the shuttle looms weave into the edge of the denim. The standard is red, but certain brands have started using a unique color to further brand the jean. Keep in mind, these jeans are completely void of obnoxious branding elements, so for people who really know their denim, a different-colored selvedge is all you need.

But enough of me geeking out about denim. The best part about the new trends in men’s style is that they’re all about being a man. Think work boots and oxfords. Raw denim and thick, heavy dock-worker sweaters. Classic lace up dress shoes and wool blazers. Yeah, it’s true that part of the new style will be looking like you have a job. Wanna rock that sweet band t-shirt? Fine, but you better have on selvedge jeans from APC or Nudie and some Red Wing Iron Ranger boots and finish the look with a tweed sport coat. Oh, and make sure the jeans fit. Jeans that start tight finish looking like they were custom made. Make sure the jacket is tailored or fits snugly. You should be able to fit a medium weight sweater underneath without the jacket bulging, but any bigger than that and it’s too big.

There will be more to come on men’s style throughout this fall/winter, including where to shop in Wichita (or online) and how to find a tailor that actually knows how to fit a jacket. And most importantly, I’ll help make sure you find the best jeans so you’re on the leading end of style rather than letting chain department stores dictate your look. It’s time to man up fellas, but you’ll need to look the part.

Images courtesy of the author

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